Water Can Shower
OK, so it’s been a long time since I put out a MacGuyver issue. So here’s another installment on professionalizing homelessness overseas.
Deployed? Convert a water can into a shower with some parts and a garden hose.
The idea is to lightly pressurize a 5-gallon military water can so you can just use a hose to wash yourself with maybe a little bit of privacy.
The 4x4 community has been doing this or something similar to it, I just thought it would be useful for when I left the house for work. You know, to like… Africa or Afghanistan.
Your parts list:
- 3/4” sillcock faucet. I like the one with a flanged base, it helps with stability.
- 3/4”-to-5/8” barbed hose adapter
- steel based Schrader-type valve stem
- 5/8” inner diameter water hose
- hose clamp
- some tools
First things first, the water can lid has to be modified to fit the valve stem and the water faucet. The best part about this is the vent cap, you don’t have to cut it off.
These have a nasty way of getting all bent up from lazy motherfuckers that leave the vent open after they’re done getting water.
This is a great way to salvage a spare cap: unscrew it all the way, drive out that little off-colored pin in the base of the cap and you’ll see that you can unscrew the vent from the underside of the water can lid itself.
Note: the steel valve stem might not need all the rubber bits to seal. Some trial and error may be in order, but that’s OK… it’s easy to remove and replace this piece for testing.
Sadly: the pour spout isn’t as painless. It actually needs to be cut open to accept the water line adapter, I used a rotary (dremel-style) tool with a rotary cutter and cleaned it up with a file and it worked out great. The frayed edges might interfere with sealing, so clean those up with a new razor blade.
During cutting, keep test-fiitting the adapter so that it’s slightly undersized. You’ll want the plastic in the water cap lid to bite into the threads to help seal the deal.
Wrap the 3/4” threads with some plumbers tape and thread that bitch in there. Wrap the tape so the tail end doesn’t get threaded first, you’ll see what I mean.
Add more plumbers tape to the threaded part of the adapter and use a crescent wrench to affix the faucet.
Easy. Cut a piece of flexible water line and use the hose clamp to attach it to the adapter on the underside of the water can lid.
OK, so I cheated a little here… I added a piece of 1” PVC pipe and used it as a sleeve to keep the water line straight for feeding from the bottom of the water can.
Why would I do this? Mostly so I could use the modified water can lid on shorter 2.5 gallon lids that are popular in the mountains of Afghanistan. They use the same lids, but they’re shorter… so just remove the PVC pipe sleeve and the flexible water line can still feed water to your faucet.
There might be hissing or a little air leakage, but you know what? It’s a water can… it wasn’t meant for this shit. Anyhow, it works just fine.
Besides, if you keep a constant air source on the can the little bullshit noises don’t matter, you won’t be able to hear it over the sound of your shower anyway.
Here’s a shot of the faucet all the way open and a small jumper box that has an onboard air compressor.
You can use any Schrader-chucked air source, typical tire repair solutions for cars or bicycles are more than adequate. A bicycle pump will work if you don’t have a compressor or power, you’ll have to re-charge a 5-gallon can at the halfway point if you’re using a bicycle hand pump. A green Slime air compressor runs off a 12v cigarette lighter outlet or a BA-5590 battery.
200m zero versus 300m zero.
A 200m zero is better for closer engagements. Flatter, allowing for less adjustment for 200 meters and closer. Still allows for a simple adjustment of 10-12 inches adjustment for targets at 300 meters.
300m zero is flatter overall for further distances but calls for making adjustments at intermediate distances.
Bottom line, if you need faster shooting at closer distances… just use a 200m zero.
This works best when applied to iron sights that aren’t adjusted very often or for red dot/ reflex sights.